Danta

At Izakaya 壇太, the signature gyoza is the place to start—a dish that continues to draw praise. Small but juicy, each dumpling has a thin skin with a crisp, fragrant underside and a filling packed with the sweetness and savoury depth of vegetables. Add the house-made chilli oil for a sharper kick, and they become easy to keep eating; reviewers have found one plate hard to stop at.

There is plenty beyond the gyoza, too, with a generous selection of Chinese-style dishes and snacks to accompany a drink. Boldly seasoned stir-fries include grilled beef large intestine, liver and chives, and grilled pork jowl with chives and kimchi—all well suited to beer or sour cocktails. Warm dishes such as salted cartilage, griddle-cooked mapo tofu and griddle curry round out the selection, while fried rice and ramen are popular ways to finish. There is a pleasure in ordering a mix to share around the table.

Drinks range from Asahi Super Dry and Akaboshi bottled beers to fresh lemon and fresh kiwi sours, as well as one-serving pours of Niigata sake, including Yukio and Kakurei. The dining room has tables and a tatami seating area at the back. Its homely atmosphere suits anything from a casual after-work drink to a lively evening meal with a group. Evenings are often busy, so booking ahead for dinner is a sensible option. Bear in mind that payment is cash only and transit IC cards are not accepted.